The Golden Age of Hong Kong Cheongsam: The 1950s and 1960s

The influx of Shanghai tailors into Hong Kong in the middle of the twentieth century drove the cheongsam industry towards its golden age in the 1950s and 1960s. In the 1950s, women were given more opportunities to join the workforce and to receive an education. As their social status rose, so did their desire to be better dressed. In those days, local women were very conscious of their Chinese identity, and they also believed that the cheongsam was perfect for exhibiting their grace and poise. This elegant dress was considered the most respectable attire for urban women to wear outside the home and thus the most desirable outfit for the office.

As most people led a frugal life in Hong Kong after the Second World War, a minimalist style was the most distinctive characteristic of the cheongsams of that time. In addition, they have come to represent a fusion of Chinese and Western sartorial culture. Western three-dimensional tailoring methods, such as shortened hemline, slim waist line, bust and waist darts, slim cut and narrow hem, were applied to accentuate the shapely silhouette of the female body. Monochrome fabrics with abstract prints were very popular. Borders and flower buttons were replaced by simplistic press studs and zippers. Moreover, cheongsams with matching Western-style jackets were also popular in winter.

During this period, the sleeves of cheongsam are made separately and later sewn on to the body. The fronts and backs have been cut separately and then joined together. Previous techniques would have made the body from one piece of fabric. With these cheongsams, no effort has been made to conceal the frayed ends of the fabric. Generally speaking, the tailoring techniques demonstrated on these cheongsams are not as refined and sophisticated as those seen in the past.