The Return of Hong Kong Cheongsam: The 1990s to the Present

After maintaining a low profile for more than two decades, the Hong Kong cheongsam returned to the spotlight to exhibit its unique connotations and vitality in the late twentieth century.

As interest in all things Oriental surged in the 1990s, Chinese sources of inspiration found great favour on international fashion runways. Some Hong Kong designers also incorporated Chinese elements into their works and made a name for themselves on the global fashion scene. After the handover to China in 1997, Hong Kong people came to recognise the role of the cheongsam as a national emblem. Popular culture also played a significant role in its return. The classic cheongsams characteristic of the 1960s showcased in the highly successful locally produced film In the Mood for Love not only invoked Hong Kong people’s collective memory of the dress, but also opened the eyes of the younger local generations as well as a global audience to the charisma of the form.

The 21st century has now seen classic styles appearing alongside brand-new interpretations. Some designers have integrated the latest fashion elements into the fabrics and accessories to enhance the modernity and cosmopolitan feel of the cheongsam, which today embraces both tradition and innovation. The dress continues to undergo improvement and remodeling, attesting to Hong Kong’s pluralistic approach to culture and aesthetics.