Hong Kong Cheongsam Making Technique

A cheongsam is a bespoke garment and requires excellent fit. The first step therefore is to take client’s body measurements. Before cutting, the fabric must be pre-treated by spraying with mist and ironing to prevent shrinkage. In cutting the fabric, there is no need to prepare a paper pattern first. Instead, the master tailor can draw the sewing pattern directly on the fabric using a thread covered with chalk powder from the chalk powder pouch according to the client’s body measurements taken.

In sewing the men’s version of cheongsam, the cutting and tailoring are distinctly different by using the method called the “Big-cut”. The front and back panels are cut out as one piece, so there is no shoulder seam to sew. The front of the gown usually opens on the right. Buttons are attached along the opening.

The old version of the women’s cheongsam adopted the method of “Small-cut”, it had the front and back panels as well as the sleeves cut out as one piece, with no shoulder seam to sew. But now, the tailoring has been influenced by that of the Western way of dressmaking. The fabric is cutting into several pieces – the front panel, the back panel, the overlapped section along the opening of the front panel, and the sleeves. If the dress is to be lined, then the lining needs to be tailored as well. This is followed by other steps such as sewing the pieces together, ironing all the seams, turning the lining inside out, making the stand-up collar, sewing on buttons etc. There are also detailing work such as preparing the set-in sleeves, piping, and Chinese frog closure buttons. It is a painstaking, time-consuming craft which requires experience, patience and consummate skills.