Review on History of Hong Kong Garment History: Origins and Developments in Post-WWII period, Issues of US-European Textile Quota, Downfall after production relocation to China

Hong Kong' s garment manufacturing industry started off soon after the war ended. In those days, there were abundant skilled sewers in Hong Kong. Manufacturers put great emphasis on credit and quality. There were also sound financial, communication and transportation systems in support. Meanwhile, industries in the neighbouring Asian countries had not yet started and thus had not become Hong Kong’s rivals yet. All of the above were factors for the rise of the garment manufacturing industry. In the 1950s, garments made in Hong Kong were mainly exported to British colonies in Africa. They were subsequently exported to Britain, the USA and Germany directly, marking the bloom of the garment manufacturing industry. In the early 1970s, the USA imposed the quota system on Hong Kong-made garments. At first, the Hong Kong Government then distributed all the quotas among the foreign trading companies, which threw Chinese manufacturers into a plight. SK Chan, then Chairman of the Garment Manufacturing Group under Federation of Hong Kong Industries, alongside other representatives of the industry including Chow Chung Kai and Lam Kan-shing, individually tried to persuade government officials and legislative councilors with every reason. The final outcome was the even distribution of quotas between foreign trading companies and Chinese manufacturers. SK Chan’s meetings with the upper management of Federation of Hong Kong Industries were normally conducted in English, as most attendants were Western businessmen. This was a big problem for the Chinese manufacturers. SK Chan then demanded that the meetings be conducted in Cantonese, and succeeded in winning the Western businessmen over to the demand of the Chinese manufacturers. Now SK Chan was still taking delight in talking about this. The garment manufacturers, having gained half the quotas, distributed the quotas among themselves according to production volume. They were also eligible to re-sell quotas to those manufacturers who had received no quota at all. SK Chan thought that with half the quotas on hand, the manufacturers’ bargaining power was lifted, and foreign trading companies could no longer offer sky-high prices. Local garment manufacturing factories thus had larger space for survival, facilitating the boom of Hong Kong’s garment manufacturing industry. The late 1970s was the heyday of Hong Kong’s garment manufacturing industry. Workers employed by garment manufacturers accounted for 40% of the labour force in the manufacturing industry. The gross export value of locally made garments amounted to 40% of that of all products made in Hong Kong. As the USA imposed the quota system, quite a number of Hong Kong manufacturers moved their factories to countries in South East Asia and South Asia, taking advantage of the absence of quota restrictions over there. However, Hong Kong manufacturers had always to adapt to the different policies and cultures existing in other countries when running their factories. The 1980s was a period in which local wages surged and the mainland opened her door for foreign investments. Many Hong Kong manufacturers moved their factories to the mainland, resulting in a gradual shrinkage of local garment production, which now has almost vanished. In recent years, the conditions for factory operation have been worsening. The government there has enacted the minimum wage law. Workers who received lower wages had to be given a pay rise. Seeing pay rises given to lower-paid worker, skilled workers naturally demanded the same treatment from the factory. As a result, labour cost has surged. SK Chan lamented that wage problems devastated the Hong Kong manufacturers. What’s more, SK Chan always complied with the law when running his factories on the mainland. Foreign companies with big brand names put great emphasis on human rights, and would send inspectors to the factories from time to time. YGM Manufacturing paid its workers for any overtime work performed as required by law, unlike some of its mainland counterparts who embezzled wages. The cost of running factories on the mainland for Hong Kong manufacturers kept rising every year, and foreign clients might not accept any increase in price, and so SK Chan thought that Hong Kong manufacturers’ future on the mainland was dim.

Interviewee
Company Yangtzekiang Garment Limited
Date
Subject Industry
Duration 22m15s
Language Cantonese
Material Type
Collection
Source Hong Kong Memory Project Oral History Interview
Repository Hong Kong Memory Project
Note to Copyright Copyright owned by Hong Kong Memory Project
Accession No. LKF-CSK-SEG-011
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