Steps (2)

After cutting out the parts for the cheongsam from the fabric, the tailor will perform the unique guibo operation, which involves manipulating the iron to ‘pull and push’ the parts into shape, straightening curved edges or curving straight edges to fit the contours of the body. Throughout the production process, the tailor will often have to apply glue, or rather a paste prepared from mixing flour with hot water and white alum, to stiffen the fabric and make it easier to cut, fix and sew.

Sewing is done by hand or machine. Cheongsams that boast traditional Shanghai craftsmanship still feature many hand-sewn details. The most desirable stitch density is eighteen stitches to one cun (just under 1.5 inches). Sewing needles come in different thicknesses and lengths to suit different needs. The sewing machine only became popular in Hong Kong in the 1950s. Today cheongsam tailors still use pedal sewing machines, which, despite being slower than electric ones, are easier to manage and control.

A fitting will be carried out at the stage when the dress is semi-finished and before adornments are added. Other accessories such as bindings, frog closures and ‘flower buttons’ also involve meticulous craftsmanship, and they again showcase the superb expertise of the cheongsam tailors acquired through long years of practice.