Cheongsam: Tradition and Innovation (2)

These two cheongsams, made by one of the Hong Kong's only remaining cheongsam tailor of the Shanghai school, Tong Kai Cheung, demonstrate how remarkably the school's tailoring techniques have been perpetuated in Hong Kong. One of the cheongsams features a fashionable design, while the other was made in the classic style. The former opens new creative paths for Hong Kong cheongsam designs, whereas the latter represents its classic charm during its heyday. The tailor's exquisite craftsmanship, meticulous professionalism and pursuit of artistic perfection are epitomised in these two – traditional and innovative – cheongsams.

Lined 'short crossed-sleeve' brocade cheongsam with embroidered floral scrolls on black ground
2013
Hong Kong Museum of History collection
This cheongsam, a classic Hong Kong design in the 1950s, was made with conventional Chinese fabric, using traditional techniques of the Shanghai school. It has a round high, straight collar, a large round front-flap, darts at the chest, and the front and back of the waist, and slits.
The dress was made with elegant machine-embroidered fabric, featuring colourful floral patterns, and lined with black creased satin. The collar, front-flap, cuffs, hem and side slits are adorned with double satin borders to highlight the lines of the cheongsam and accentuate the design, especially at the collar and front-flap. No trace of stitches can be seen on the surface of the gown – an exemplification of exquisite craftsmanship. The smooth-running lines from the waist to the slit on either side are the result of sophisticated guibo ironing skills.