Cheongsam: Tradition and Innovation (1)

These two cheongsams, made by one of the Hong Kong's only remaining cheongsam tailor of the Shanghai school, Tong Kai Cheung, demonstrate how remarkably the school's tailoring techniques have been perpetuated in Hong Kong. One of the cheongsams features a fashionable design, while the other was made in the classic style. The former opens new creative paths for Hong Kong cheongsam designs, whereas the latter represents its classic charm during its heyday. The tailor's exquisite craftsmanship, meticulous professionalism and pursuit of artistic perfection are epitomised in these two – traditional and innovative – cheongsams.

Lined cap-sleeved ivory cheongsam with see-through lace top
2013
Hong Kong Museum of History collection
This dress fuses traditional cheongsam elements with the fabric and design of Western ceremonial attire. It has a round high, straight collar, a back opening, darts at the chest, and front and back of the waist, and slits. Made with ivory wool and silk-blend twill from Italy, the cheongsam features a low-cut, backless design, and is covered with French sequined see-through lace of the same colour. The lace, which extends to the lower abdomen, has a wavy border at the bottom, and the cheongsam is lined with silk of the same colour. Since the lace is extremely thin and porous, a thin layer of gauze is added to the underside to strengthen the fabric.
In order to accommodate the 'back opening' design, three sets of fancy buttons – buttons and loops made with fabric tubes – are sewn into the back of the high collar. See-through plastic instead of the usual hard, opaque material is used as the lining of the high collar for the perfect result.