The early forms of cheongsam (7)

In the 1920s, an early form of the cheongsam re-emerged that traced its origins back to the gown of Manchu women of the Qing dynasty but also incorporated contemporary fashion elements. Like the Manchu gown, it was cut wide and straight, but it had also been modernised: the skirt was shortened to the calf to reveal the ankles; the sleeves were shortened to elbow or wrist length; and the cuffs, collar and front-flap were adorned with simple bindings or pipings. This style formed the prototype for the modern cheongsam.
These cheongsams adopt a straight, wide cut and sleeves fashioned from the same piece of fabric. This version is shorter than the traditional long gowns worn by Manchu women. The bell-shaped sleeves, meanwhile, were extremely popular at that time. The thin bindings and pipings that spice up the whole design differ in colour from the body of the cheongsam.
During the early 20th century, fabric bolts were rather narrow due to limitations in weaving technology. Since the bolt was not wide enough to make a full cheongsam with body and sleeves, several pieces of fabric had to be joined together. The seams were usually made at the sleeves or in the centre of the body.

Lined long-sleeved chiffon cheongsam with multicoloured floral prints
1920s
Hong Kong Museum of History collection
This cheongsam is made of silk chiffon printed with light blue floral motif and is adorned with narrow dark blue bindings. The collar, front-flap and right underarm are sewn with dark blue frog closures. There are no central seams on the bodice, but an extra length of fabric has been sewn to the lower part of the under-flap on the right, a tailoring technique called toujin, or 'discreet inner-flap'.