The early forms of cheongsam (6)

In the 1920s, an early form of the cheongsam re-emerged that traced its origins back to the gown of Manchu women of the Qing dynasty but also incorporated contemporary fashion elements. Like the Manchu gown, it was cut wide and straight, but it had also been modernised: the skirt was shortened to the calf to reveal the ankles; the sleeves were shortened to elbow or wrist length; and the cuffs, collar and front-flap were adorned with simple bindings or pipings. This style formed the prototype for the modern cheongsam.
These cheongsams adopt a straight, wide cut and sleeves fashioned from the same piece of fabric. This version is shorter than the traditional long gowns worn by Manchu women. The bell-shaped sleeves, meanwhile, were extremely popular at that time. The thin bindings and pipings that spice up the whole design differ in colour from the body of the cheongsam.
During the early 20th century, fabric bolts were rather narrow due to limitations in weaving technology. Since the bolt was not wide enough to make a full cheongsam with body and sleeves, several pieces of fabric had to be joined together. The seams were usually made at the sleeves or in the centre of the body.

Mid-sleeved cheongsam with shade of trees on green ground
1920s
Hong Kong Museum of History collection
The fabric's pattern is indeed ingenious and makes use of the fact that patterns are originally printed on a bolt's two ends. The fabric was folded to make the front and back of the body, thus revealing printed patterns on the garment's two sides.
This cheongsam is entirely handmade. A piece of white cloth lines the inside of the collar that can be replaced when it becomes stained.