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"Printing and Dyeing business, production procedure, technology level and development of China Dyeing Work
China Dyeing Works was mainly in dyeing of garment fabrics, such as woven fabrics, while Fountain Set (Holdings) Ltd was in dyeing of knitted fabrics, since the machines used and the dyeing process were different. While China Dyeing Works did mostly woven garment fabrics, there were other companies which took care of bed linen, curtain and utility fabrics. China Dyeing Works dealt mostly with linen and cotton (i.e. natural fiber) and was not so much involved in synthetic fiber such as nylon or polyester.
China Dyeing Works' other dyeing business. Between 1976 and 1977, China Dyeing Works acquired a factory belonged to French-owned Subliprint Far East Ltd. The factory was located at Tuen Mun. It specialized in transfer printing. Transfer printing was to print the pattern on paper, and then transfer it to polyester fabrics. Nowadays that factory had shifted to the production of stretch silk, i.e. elastic spandex used in garment fabrics.
China Dyeing Works' sources of fabrics. From 1970s to 1980s, cost of production in Hong Kong increased which drove New Territories Textiles Ltd to close its local business and production was moved to mainland China and Africa. China Dyeing Works had to import fabrics from different sources, such as greige fabrics from Pakistan, Indonesia and mainland China.
Pre-dyeing treatment. When greige fabrics arrived at a dyeing factory, they had to go through the processes of singeing and desizing. Singeing removed the trimmings from the greige fabrics so the surface would become bright and smooth. To avoid the breaking of yarn during weaving, factory would apply size on the yarn before processing. Desizing was necsseary before dyeing. Otherwise the dye would not be applied evenly. Desizing added COD loading of a dyeing factory's sewage discharge, with the indicators ranged from 1,000 ppm to 30,000 ppm. The next step was scouring. Grease and impurities were removed from the fiber. This was followed by bleaching, which was to remove the natural coloring agent with oxidant. This would turn the greige fabrics to white color. What's followed was mercerizing which meant the fabrics have to be treated with sodium hydroxide.It gave the fabrics a lustrous appearance and strengthened their stability. Also, by doing so, fabric would be more absorbing to paint. These were all pre-dyeing processes. Then the fabrics could be dyed or printed.
Dyeing and printing involved a lot of dyeing auxiliaries. Different paints were selected for different fabric according to the fabrics' type, color, and fastness. Fastness referred to the degree of a fabric's bleaching. There were numerous tests for fastness of a finished fabric. Characteristics such as strength, color fastness, slip yarn, rebound, shrinkage, formaldehyde content and functional test would be tested.A full test would cost $2000 to $3000.
There were different types of dyeing. Cold dye was better for darker colors. It had a better energy –efficiency and infiltration. Continuous dyeing had a higher efficiency and the fabrics would appear more beautiful with even color on the surface. Different processes had to work with different paints. For printing, different ways of printing, such as direct printing, discharge printing and resist printing, could create different effects.
Post-dyeing processes. After dyeing, the fabrics needed to go through fixing. Fixing involved steaming, thermal treatment and multiple washing. All dyed fabrics needed to be washed to remove the loose dye so the dye would not come off when the cloth was washed at home. After washing the fabrics needed to go through finishing. This would alter the feel of the fabric, i.e. so called “hand feel” which could produce effects included peach skin, moleskin, micro sand, carbon brush and ceramic brush, etc. Different machines were used to create these feels in a fabric. There are other functional finishings including anti-wrinkle, waterproof, oil proof, anti bacteria, anti UV, wicking, air permeability, and adding favoring agents (such as collagen or ginseng taste), etc. These were all post dyeing processes. Shrinkage was part of the finishing process. Nowadays every garment has a mandatory 3% of shrinkage. Other finishing processes include calendering and electrifying which brought a glossy texture to the fabric. Fabric became elastic, either warp-wise stretch or weft stretch, after elastane was added. A normal piece of clothing could go through 50 times of washing. Given the processing technology of China Dyeing Works, a fabric was still wrinkle-free and iron-free after it had withstood 50 times of washing. This was the result of continuous research and development. However, RandD cost had to be kept in control and environmental issues have to be considered. For instance, organic cotton and fibers that could be recycled would require certificate of proof.
In view of heightened energy costs, China Dyeing Works had to change its production strategy. The company retained its factory in Hong Kong but downsized its manpower from 500 to 120. Production remained the same but increased in outsourcing. After receiving its orders from the clients, weaving and dyeing factories in the mainland would handle the production. China Dyeing Works would co-operate with weaving and dyeing factories in the mainland which would handle the production. China Dyeing Works would be responsible for quality control and delivery schedule. The company's production in Hong Kong had decreased. Hong Kong is now a base of training, research and development , and quality control. It had taken a more trading role in its business.
Cost comparison between mainland China and Southeast Asian countries. Mainland China could not compete with India in terms of cost. According to some magazines' reports, cost of production in India was only 60% of that of mainland China, while in Vietnam the figure was 25%. China Dyeing Works had to rely on its competitiveness in terms of service, such as delivery on schedule and quality control, to maintain good relationships with its clients.
Interviewee Chan Kin Keung Company China Dyeing Holdings, Ltd. Date 1970s-2000s Subject Industry Duration 18m48s Language Cantonese Material Type Audio Collection Post-war Industries Source Hong Kong Memory Project Oral History Interview Repository Hong Kong Memory Project Note to Copyright Copyright owned by Hong Kong Memory Project Accession No. AY-CKK-SEG-002 
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The founder of The China Paint Manufacturing Company, Lam Kwan, native of Taishan, had good academic performance in his early age. He had studied in the United States. While Lam was studying in the U.S., he not only worked in farms picking up fruits but also taught Chinese classes for Chinese-American. He graduated from Brooklyn Institute, New York, while the U.S. was hit by the Great Depression. He recommended himself to a paint manufacturing company and got accepted. Another founder of The China Paint Manufacturing Company, Lam On, the father of Paul Lam and the brother of Lam Kwan, had studied in Guangzhou Lingnan Secondary School and Pui Ching Middle School.
After Lam Kwan returned to Hong Kong from the United States, he founded a small paint factory (The China Paint Manufacturing Company) with his brother, Lam On. Since Lam Kwan had received education on chemical engineering, he brought related skills and knowledge to the factory. At the beginning, the factory produced metal paint and wood paint. The National Lacquer and Paint Products Company were separately founded in the same year (1931).
The China Paint Manufacturing Company had a limited capital to start with; the founders collected the capital from their family while there were only 6 employees. During the Japanese Occupation, the production of The China Manufacturing Company stopped. Lam Kwan turned to produce and sell peanut candy in Liuzhou, Guangxi to sustain his living. In 1946, The China Paint Manufacturing Company was re-registered and the founders raised more fund by selling shares. However, the company scale remained relatively small.
The paint production technology was not advanced in the past. The government did not have strict safety requirements on either paint factories or paint products. The workshop of China Paint had limited facilities, it used cooking pot to boil oil and rarely maintained the machinery. The China Paint Manufacturing Company built a 3 level factory at Arran Street, Mong Kok. The ground level was the production shopfloor, the second level was office and store room for raw materials and solvents, the third floor was the living place for the Lam’s family. Paul Lam had lived in the third floor after Lam Kwan had moved out. Since the paint production process required boiling oil, which is a relatively dangerous procedure, the company rented an open area at Tai Kok Tsui to conduct the process. There were a public playground and a men’s dormitory near the factory at Arran Street. The China Paint Manufacturing Company had established the workshop at Arran Street at the time when Paul Lam was in kindergarten. Male workers were responsible for production processes while female workers were responsible for packaging. Accommodation was provided for male workers only.
Other than Paul Lam, Lam Mo Bill (The son of Lam Kwan), was also the second-generation successor of The China Paint Manufacturing Company. Paul Lam graduated from the University of California, Berlekey with Chemistry major. Lam Mo Bill graduated from Stanford University with Chemistry major too. Since there was no specialized discipline on paint technology in the universities, the only way for people to learn about paint was to study chemistry and to take courses that had contents of paint, such as polymer chemistry. Usually, paint companies would obtain knowledge of paint technology by setting up licensing arrangements with foreign companies. In 1965, The China Paint Manufacturing Company employed the first chemist.
After Paul Lam graduated from university, he had worked oversea for seven years. During that period of time, The China Paint Manufacturing Company had planned to take over a joint venture in Singapore, to improve the unsatisfactory performance of the company. Lam Kwan and Lam On invited Paul Lam to manage the company in Singapore. In arriving at Singapore, he found that the business was not a good investment, he decided to forgo the take-over and returned to Hong Kong. Although paint industry is one kind of chemical industry, Paul Lam considered himself know little about paint. Initially he had no intention to stay and work for the company. Not long afterwards, Lam Kwan died of heart disease. Paul Lam had worked in Hong Kong for less than a year and then returned to his previous employer in the United States. Under the urge of the family, he eventually returned to Hong Kong to help with the family business.
The Lam’s family used to respect the individual interests and initiatives of the younger generation and seldom imposed pressure to the descendants to inherit the family business. For example, all the children of Paul Lam did not major in science specialties and he didn’t plan to arrange his children to be successors.
Paul Lam had studied in La Salle College and then changed to Diocesan Boys' School at Form 2, where he studied until graduation. Since his parents had little knowledge about studying abroad, Paul Lam himself gathered information from his teacher and sent out an application to The University of California, Berkeley. He was admitted and left for Berkeley in early 1962. There were a good number of graduates from Diocesan Boys’ School to study abroad.
Paul Lam did not have particular expectation about his future after graduation. He had a lot of interests and activities and work was only one of his concerns. At that time it was not difficult for one to find a living in the United States. Therefore, Paul Lam did not worry about his career future. Upon graduation, he joined the Specialty Gas industry, which was a challenging industry that provided him with great satisfaction. He witnessed the rapid growth of the electronics industry in the 1970s. At that time, electronic companies like Pioneer and Dupin applied a special poisonous gas rather than atomic particles to produce chips for the brands’ circuit boards.
The company he worked for was a material supplier for electronic companies. In 1969, his company supplied the disinfection gas to the American astronaut Armstrong when he returned to the Earth after landing on the Moon. It was common for the American hospitals to use the same disinfection gas. In 1970s, he was relocated to Los Angeles, a city which was faced with serious air pollution. His company provided gas for General Motor to detect the gas exhaustion level. His company also produced heavy water, a material for producing atomic bomb. The production of atomic bomb was a dangerous industry as carbon monoxide was emitted as a by-product. When he was the Chemist of the company, Paul Lam had witnessed explosion in the company. Therefore Paul Lam was experienced in managing accidents and hazards in the paint industry. Back in the U.S., Pau Lam was promoted to branch manager since he showed good performance in handling an accident caused by hydrogen chloride in the Intel Corporation. He was then the youngest and the only expatriate branch manager of the company.
The Lam’s family had urged Paul Lam to return to Hong Kong several times. He made such move after he had obtained the resident identity (literally called Green Card) after marriage. To maintain his resident status in the U.S., he returned to the U.S. after he had worked in Hong Kong for around one year. To make good use of his mobility, the Lam’s family arranged Paul Lam to for Sherwin Williams, which engaged in a partnership of technology transfer with China Paint. Sherwin Williams was the largest paint company in the United States. Paul Lam was employed as a salaried technician for 9 months. He was there to learn the skills necessary for producing the brand name products under China Paint. The two companies signed a 10-year partnership agreement for technology transfer. China Paint was allowed to use the technology and the brand name of Sherwin Williams to produce paints in Hong Kong. Because of this partnership, the production technology of China Paint was improved. Paint companies needed chemists to produce paint and made adjustment according to client’s request. However, Paul Lam believed the company could not rely on the paint manufacturing formula only. Fulfilling the need of customers and providing quality customer service would also be important. The marketability of paint products relied on proper chemical formula, sale network, adequate combination of materials and the skill knowledge of technicians. Therefore, instead of focusing on chemical formulas, China Paint employed consultants to teach its staff with the chemical knowledge and properties of paint materials.
After Paul Lam left Sherwin William, he returned to China Paint and worked at the Kwun Tong factory. At first, he engaged in the administrative section to improve the company’s work environment, efficiency, labour structure and promotion system. Then, he worked on market research, doing analysis on the market shares and profit margin of the company and its competitors.
The development of The China Paint Manufacturing Company (Part I): Plant, products variety and industrial paint expansion
In the 1970s, there were six major paint factories, Kin Kwok Lacquer Manufacturing Company and several small factories in Hong Kong. The market competition was intense. China Paint had two plants in Kwun Tong, one of which was built by the company. It was a 6-level building of 40,000 square ft. The factory moved to Sai Kung later, which had a total area of 160,000 square ft. Nowadays the company had a factory in Shenzhen with a total area of 58,000 square meters, which was still not sufficient for operation. At the time when Paul Lam started to work for the company, the sales figures were only of 8 digits. In terms of market share, the company was the smallest among the major paint factories, with National Lacquer and Paint Products Company being the largest among all. Nowadays the China market contributed 90% of the company’s sales.
The company’s products used to be exported to overseas markets. In the 1970s, as many of these import countries imposed various kinds of import restriction, China Paint began to develop local market. At that time, Hong Kong’s industries was growing rapidly. With the help of foreign companies, Paul Lam and his cousins switched to produce industrial paints. In the early stage of China’s economic reform, the company started to relocate its production to China, which led to an increase of orders from the industrial sector. The company’s industrial paint could be used for producing rattan, electronic fans and toys. Types of toy included metal toy cars, both soft and hard plastic toys and PVC dolls. Different types of toy required different kinds of paint. The paints for toy were mostly classified into the followings: paint for metal, paint for hard plastic such as Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) paint, paint for soft plastic such as Polypropylene (PP) paint, Polyethylene (PE) paint and Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) paint.
During the production of the company’s industrial paint, the chemists had to try different combinations of chemical materials in order to fit with the receptivity of different material surface. Once the chemists successfully fit a type of paint with the kind of material, they would focus on cost reduction. 30% to 40% of the company’s revenue came from toy paint, which representing 70% of the Hong Kong market demand. Paint for architectural construction composed the major part of the company’s revenue. Brand name “Flower” was specialized for architectural construction while “GIRAFFE” was specialized for paint for wood.
