History of China Dyeing Works. Factory Condition in Tsuen Wan. Expansion of business as far as West Africa. Plant relocation to Yeun Long to cope with environmental protection policy. Co-operation with a French company.

Cha Chi Ming left Shanghai and came to Hong Kong in 1949. His father-in-law, Liu Guojun, was the founder of Da Cheng Dyeing Factory in Changzhou, and was quite established in textile business in mainland China. Due to the transfer of political power in China, Cha came to Hong Kong and started China Dyeing Works at Tsuen Wan's Castle Peak Road in 1949. At the beginning it was only a small factory in the business of dyeing fabrics.It dyed fabrics in a dyeing vat. Each vat could only produce a few hundred to a thousand yards of fabrics. At that time the factory was next to a large ditch. Later on when the business expanded, the company built a new factory opposite the ditch. A bridge was also built to connect the two factories for transportation of fabrics across the ditch. Nowadays the ditch has been reclaimed and on top of it is Discovery Park and Tai Chung Road.The volume of water that ran through the ditch was not high. But when there was a typhoon or rain storm, water that came down from Lotus Hill and Tso Kung Tam could fill up the whole ditch and water would become turbulent. At the beginning China Dyeing Works did not have a sewage facility. Sewage from the dyeing process would be discharged through the ditch to the sea. Later on the general public had a stronger awareness on environmental protection. And the development of the factories’ surrounding area as well as growth of Tsune Wan’s population was rapid. Journalists and students would take photos and water sample from the ditch to argue that how dyes from the factories had caused pollution. Since its start up, China Dyeing Works has been constantly renewing its facilities and introduced many new technologies in the industry. It was the first factory in Hong Kong that used a copper roller printing machine, and also the first that employed pre-shrunk process in production.
In 1972 Chan Kin Keung joined China Dyeing Works. He studied chemical engineering in the university. There were not that many tertiary education programme dedicated to dyeing, and environmental protection as a concept had only just started to develop. At that time dyeing industry was very prosperous. There were over ten large factories with each employed over a thousand workers. These factories included China Dyeing Works, Pacific Dyeing Works, King's Dyeing Factory, Link Dyeing Works, Island Dyeing and Printing Company, Winnitex Limited, South China Bleaching and Dyeing Factory and Pollux Bleaching and Dyeing Works (located in Sai Kung), plus other dyeing factories of considerable scale. From then until the end of 1980s, fabrics made in Hong Kong included cotton, terylene, polyester/cotton blends or iron-free dacron.
China Dyeing Works set up New Territories Textiles Limited at Chai Wan Kok for the process of spinning and weaving. Cha Textiles Group had built plants in Nigeria of West Africa during the 1960s. The company was at the right time to build its vertical set-up from the cotton plantation, spinning, weaving to printing and dyeing. During its peak time, the company had over ten factories in Ghana, Congo, Togo (Lome) in West Africa, hired over 20,000 workers. Chan Kin Keung said Cha Textiles Group had a great contribution to West Africa in terms of wax-print and real wax printing technology. The company's products accounted for 80% of West African wax-print output. The company popularized a dyeing process and helped to turn this household craft into an industrial production process, which was nothing less than a miracle.
When Chan Kin Keung joined the business in 1972, he started at the printing division. Printing division was responsible for the dyeing of polyester/cotton blends and pure cotton fabrics. At that time quantity was more important than quality. Emphasis was on efficiency and there were very few complaints from clients on quality. As time went on, production cost in Hong Kong became higher and higher. Until 1987, in view of environmental protection issues, Cha Chi Ming was already preparing for the environment protection policy to be adopted in the mid 1990s. He was considering either maintaining the business in Hong Kong, or relocating to mainland China. At that time the company had applied for land at the Yuen Long Industrial Estate, and at the same time prepared to relocate the factories to the mainland. The June 4th Incident propelled Cha to keep his business in Hong Kong. In 1992, he started to build his factory at the Yuen Long Industrial Estate, and the inauguration of new factory was held on 29th September, 1993. After the factory was moved to Yuen Long, the company's business and clients shifted. Cha sent sales representatives to deal with the company's clients in Europe and US, and made fabrics according to clients' requirements. Its clients included GAP, Old Navy, Polo, Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica, Ann Taylor and Marks and Spenser, etc. They have been business partners with Cha Textiles for over a decade. These brands have higher requirements towards quality, which posed challenges to the manufacturers, and in turn pushed the manufacturers to improve on their technologies.
Environmental protection policy was implemented in Hong Kong around 1994/1995. Because of this, the majority of the dyeing plants in Hong Kong were either closed or moved to China. For instance, South China Bleaching and Dyeing Factory established its plant in Kwun Tong Industrial Estate. But since there was no space to build sewage facility, it had to close down the plant and moved the machines to mainland China. During the first or second year of implementation of the environmental protection policy, many dyeing factories disappeared. China Dyeing Works was able to survive because it was relocated to Yuen Long Industrial Estate in 1989. The sewage facility it had was considered one of the largest in Hong Kong, which could process 5,000 tonnes of sewage. Sewage would need about 20 hours to process, where the problems of pH, COD, BOD, color and temperature would be dealt with. It was quite difficult to remove the undesirables from sewage. The company brought in bio-chemical technologies from the mainland to deal with sewage. These technologies involved bio-carbonization process including anaerobic, aerobic, aeration, sediment and carbon treatment. The company spent over ten millions of dollars on sewage treatment, including infrastructure, bacteria cultivation, filler, and electricity and neutralizing materials, etc. Sewage from dyeing was alkaline so it needed to be neutralized with sulfuric acid, and then added other materials to increase its sediment and lower the temperature.
Around 1993 to 1994, after China Dyeing Works moved to Yuen Long Industrial Estate, the company partnered with famous French textile company DMC(Groupe DMC(Dollfus Mieg and Cie). Through China Dyeing Works, DMC could develop its China business, and China Dyeing Works could upgrade its technology on discharge printing and rayon fiber, etc. In 2002, when European printing and dyeing industry declined, DMC also withdrawn from the partnership and the co-operation between the two companies ended.


Interviewee
Company China Dyeing Holdings, Ltd.
Date
Subject Industry
Duration 19m48s
Language Cantonese
Material Type
Collection
Source Hong Kong Memory Project Oral History Interview
Repository Hong Kong Memory Project
Note to Copyright Copyright owned by Hong Kong Memory Project
Accession No. AY-CKK-SEG-001
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